Financial Times FT.com

Back to the frituur

By David Atkinson

Published: February 23 2008 01:01 | Last updated: February 23 2008 01:01

It’s a wintry night in Antwerp when I arrive with a growling stomach. Wandering the cobblestone streets of the old town in search of a snack, my eye is drawn to the art deco-style sign for Frituur No 1, a small fast-food restaurant off one of the main squares, Grote Markt. The aesthetics may be simple and the cutlery plastic but my first taste of genuine Belgian chips comes as a revelation. A glorious juxtaposition of crispy exterior and buttery-soft inside, the fried potato strips are hearty, comforting and tangy, served with an array of dipping sauces. I am instantly hooked.

The Belgians celebrate their chips, or frieten in Flemish, all year round. The Dutch-speaking Flanders region of northern Belgium is home to the finest frituur, a simple, informal eatery and a Belgian institution, where chips are served in a paper cone. The best are prepared from Belgian Bintje potatoes, cut to a specified length and fried twice for extra crispiness.

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