"I hate this regime," says the louche-looking Ivan, with a draw on a cigarette during one of his breaks from the automated roulette wheel in the hotel casino. "But, I have to say, things are getting better. Five years ago, you could do nothing at all, but now you can do some things, at least."

It is a common refrain. Life is improving for private business in Belarus, albeit from a position in which arbitrary action was the hallmark of economic policy. Although much still remains to be done, the state is retreating from direct intervention in the economy by streamlining regulation and lightening the tax burden. The country rose 30 places in this year's World Bank survey on the ease of doing business, but still ranks only 85th overall - above Russia and Ukraine, but below Kenya and Colombia.