Not all restaurateurs seem to have realised that the economic sands – so firmly in their favour for the past few years – are shifting. That is the conclusion I draw from two recent anecdotes.

The first concerns a visit to Tom Aikens’ restaurant in London’s Chelsea by two managers of the highly regarded Singaporean restaurant Les Amis. When booking they had been made aware of the restaurant’s dress code – in particular, no trainers – so they arrived suitably attired, although one of them was wearing what he described as a pair of shoes “like Tod’s”. One of the waiting staff promptly told him that his manager had said that as a result of what he was wearing on his feet the two men would not be served. They then asked to speak to the manager, who refused to change his mind but, as a conciliatory gesture, offered to pay for a taxi to take the visitor back to his nearby hotel, wait while he changed his shoes then bring him back. The two walked out, undoubtedly leaving the restaurant unable to fill the table at the last moment. Knowing this pair’s interest in food and wine, I would guess that Tom Aikens had deprived itself of a lucrative lunch. The restaurant’s public relations representative said the restaurant is reconsidering the policy.