As the men’s wear spring/summer 2010 collections drew to a close last week, the mood was surprisingly optimistic. Male consumers were heralded as a promising “new luxury segment” in a report by Bain, the consultancy group; and Harrod’s announced a £9m ($15m, €10m) expansion of its men’s section.

Just a few days after sitting in the front row at his brand’s linen-suited ode to “nomads”, Gildo Zegna, chief executive of the eponymous Italian family-run luxury behemoth, is therefore feeling pretty good. “I think men’s wear has been more resilient during the crisis than women’s wear,” the 53-year-old Mr Zegna says.