Many Americans blame Saudis for the price of petrol needed to fill their SUVs and motor homes. But Saudis have their own complaint: they hold American contractors who helped build their road networks responsible for the traffic congestion and lack of efficient public transport.

“American builders of Riyadh modelled it after Los Angeles, with highways and big roads, but with no plan for public transportation,” says Salwa, a businesswoman in Riyadh. “The government just woke up to the importance of trains for linking cities after thousands of Saudis and pilgrims have been killed on those highways. But they are doing nothing about easing traffic in Riyadh or other cities.”