Whitehall is in despair over its latest crop of ministers. I am told hardly any of them can be persuaded to concentrate on governing. “Even the new ones who have just been promoted are not doing any work,” complained one civil service knight as we tucked into scaloppine al limone. “All they’re interested in is their expenses – or in election manifestos or an autumn rebellion.” Nobody believes that discontent over prime minister Gordon Brown’s leadership has been put to rest.

There are other difficulties. First secretary Lord Mandelson wanted to discuss what the various parts of his new empire would be doing now he has added DIUS – Department for Innovation, Universities and Skills – to his old department of BERR – Business, Enterprise and Regulatory Reform. The trouble was his permanent secretary, Simon Fraser, was not too sure. Not only was the latest reshuffle a last-minute stitch-up – normally top officials can expect about a week’s notice of any changes – but Mr Fraser, a career diplomat who worked as Lord Mandelson’s chef de cabinetin Brussels, has never worked in a domestic department before.