The ruins of thepriory arespectacular. Sharp-edged stonework soars from pastures perforated by ancient tombs. We climb alongside the river Wharfe, the warm wood of the stiles andkissing-gates worn smooth by countless hands. Beech and ash cast dappled shadows across the chocolate-coloured water. Beneath the trees, the boulders by the river are grey and cool. Beyond, the stone of the farm buildings climbing the dales on either side glows in the sunlight.

By the time we reach Burnsall village and relax in the sophisticated haven of the Glebe Barn bed and breakfast, we've walked our first 14 miles, deep into the Yorkshire Dales National Park. Another 67 miles of pleasure lie ahead.