When Wexford's opera festival was young and innocent, audiences used to talk of "one for the head, one for the heart and one for fun". It was a neat way of summarising Wexford's diet of obscure operas, which for the past 50 years have provided aficionados with the perfect excuse for an autumn break in southern Ireland.

Even though the festival has matured, it remains sui generis, drawing its atmosphere from Wexford's narrow streets, the smell of sea air and the welcome of its couthy populace, many of whom serve as festival volunteers.