Before dinner at El Bulli, outside Roses in north-eastern Spain, two of our party separately asked me the same question: why had Ferran Adrià, widely acknowledged as the world’s most innovative chef, not opened more El Bullis?

On both occasions, I replied that part of the El Bulli experience is its location, as well as the journey to and from the restaurant, and that they should wait until our return to the hotel to see whether they could think of another location anywhere in the world that could match it.