Tom Kitchin was still only 29 when, in January, he became the youngest Scottish chef to win a Michelin star, just seven months after opening his restaurant in Leith, the regenerated port area of Edinburgh.

The restaurant, which offers Scottish produce cooked in a French style, and is inevitably called The Kitchin, went on to win a clutch of awards for signature dishes such as roasted langoustine tails served with boned and rolled pig’s head and crispy ear salad.