The decision to revive the Arctic Roll, the frozen dessert that last enjoyed popularity when the Bay City Rollers were top of the UK charts, may have perplexed gourmands.

Nigel Slater, the chef and food writer, once described the 1970s family favourite as a “sponge-covered tube of vanilla ice-cream, its USP [unique selling point] being the wrapping of wet sponge and ring of red jam so thin it could have been drawn on with an architect’s pen ... [which] managed to taste of cold cardboard.”