The world is awash with rosé," observed an old friend who once managed one of London's most famous hotels somewhat testily to me the other day. "How on earth are we supposed to know which of them to drink?" Later that same day I met an old girlfriend for the first time for more than a decade. In the interim she had married and I asked about her husband. One of his favourite leisure activities, apparently, is drinking. And what does he drink? Why, rosé.
Perhaps the most visible change in what goes into wine glasses over the past few years has been the newly respectable status of pink wine, even for men, and the dramatically increased volumes of it that are to be found on sale in the UK and the US. But I would argue that even seasoned wine drinkers need more help in finding the best rosés than in identifying the best reds and whites because there is just so much opportunistic pink wine about.
