Duro Olowu has made it in the US – the London-based designer was named New Designer of the Year in 2005. And it was a buyer from Barneys, the US department store, who helped propel him into the spotlight.

The dearth of US retailers at this year’s London Fashion Week will not affect Mr Olowu but he is worried about a new generation hoping to follow in his footsteps. “It is a concern for UK designers that are looking for US stockists,” he says.