When John McCain parachuted into Trúc Bach lake 40 years ago, his -aeroplane having been shot down, he was dragged from the water by a crowd who smashed his shoulder and stabbed him with a bayonet. Were the US presidential hopeful to land in the same spot now he would probably be offered nothing more threatening than strong coffee with condensed milk - and perhaps the chance to rent an agreeable villa.

When McCain was repatriated after five-and-a-half years as a prisoner of war at the notorious "Hanoi Hilton", the West Lake was surrounded by distinct communities with tiny workshops and fragrant orchards. Today homes in the Vietnamese capital with water views or down the leafy lanes nearby are cherished by residents seeking respite from the charming if decayed and often raucous city.