The spirit that has sustained Russians through thousands of years of freezing winters is starting to lose ground to the spirit that has sustained the Scots: Russia has become the biggest European market for Johnnie Walker Blue Label, the most expensive label of the world’s best-selling Scotch whisky.

Demand in Russia for alternative spirits to vodka – and for pricier alcoholic beverages in general – has been rising faster than anticipated, prompting Diageo, owner of Johnnie Walker, to plan importing more aged versions of its Talisker whisky, as well as Tanqueray 10 gin, from next year.