March 7, 2014 5:53 pm

Five of the best: oyster bars in Paris

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The French capital is suitably well-served when it comes to places to enjoy les huîtres (and a glass of dry white)
Le Mary Celeste©Diane Yoon

Le Mary Celeste

Huîtrerie Régis

Régis’ wonderfully fresh and briny oysters come from Marennes-Oléron and are available to eat freshly shucked in the tiny pale-blue and white dining room or to take home. The bread is good, the white wine chosen for you and the set menu is a perfectly balanced three courses. I had the salmon after a dozen oysters and finished with a plate of cheeses. Service is friendly and efficient. Booking essential.

3 rue de Montfaucon, 6th arrondissement, +33 1 4441 1007;

La Cabane à Huîtres

The dining room in this popular but small oyster bar is decorated like a rustic seaside shack, and serves the biggest oysters I have ever eaten or seen. The proprietor grows his own produce and adds them to a menu which includes sumptuous duck breast, smoked salmon and home-made desserts. I enjoyed a dozen oysters from the Bassin d’Arcachon and a glass of perfectly chilled dry white Bordeaux.

4 rue Antoine Bourdelle, 15th arrondissement, +33 1 4549 4727

Le Mary Celeste

Part gastropub, part restaurant, this large, noisy hangout serves spankingly fresh oysters, either with the traditional accompaniment of shallot and vinegar, lemon or a refreshing mango sauce. The wide range of oysters means you get to choose not only taste but size. The rest of the menu is mainly made up of tapas-style dishes. Be prepared to pay steep mark-ups on the wine.

1 rue Commines, 3rd arrondissement, +33 9 8072 9883;


This delightful no-reservations oyster bar is tiny – just seven tables – and no-frills with its bare bricks and stone floor. After ordering, customers pick out their cutlery from tins lining the bar. I devoured a selection of the creamiest oysters, served with a home-made Tabasco sauce. The oysters from Maldon, with their distinct flavour from the salt marshes and meaty texture, were a highlight.

80 rue de Charonne, 11th arrondissement, +33 1 4372 7453


From the crisp linen to the rather formal service, Dessirier oozes opulence. The shellfish is next to none. Try the Tradition Menu (€40 for two courses), consisting on my visit of six oysters from Utah Beach followed by cod with garlic sauce. A half-bottle of Alsatian wine recommended by my waiter was a perfect match. Do book, as locals and foodies alike are very fond of this place. Take-away oysters are available at the attractive bar.

Place du Maréchal Juin, 17th arrondissement, +33 1 4227 8214;


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Martin Sandbu

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