February 17, 2012 9:51 pm

Barometer: Alpine retreats

Mountain climbers can now find accommodation in high-altitude retreats that combine seclusion with luxury
Muottas Muragl

Muottas Muragl, above Samedan, Switzerland

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IN Pursuits

In 1907, the first tourists travelled on the tiny funicular railway from the floor of the Engadin valley to the 2,456m-high summit of Muottas Muragl, where they could enjoy sensational views over the resorts of St Moritz, Samedan and Pontresina. Today the railway is still running, and a major renovation and extension of the hotel at the top has just been completed. It now has 16 rooms decorated in white Swiss pine which gives a modern twist to the dark wood panelling of old alpine chalets. There is an elegant restaurant and a large sun-terrace, while solar panels and a geothermal energy system mean the building produces more power than it uses. The extensive ski slopes of St Moritz are within easy reach.

Doubles from CHF240 (£165), including breakfast; www.muottasmuragl.ch

Frutt Lodge

Frutt Lodge, above Stöckalp, Switzerland

A new gondola takes guests from the village of Stöckalp up to Melchsee-Frutt, a sunny plateau 1,920m above sea level, which since 1865 has attracted tourists seeking the health benefits of mountain air. The four-star Frutt Lodge opened there just before Christmas, on the shores of a frozen lake. On the outside its blocky architecture has something of the Bond villain’s lair, but the interiors of the 61 rooms are a smart blend of contemporary and traditional alpine design. There are 32km of ski runs from the door, a freestyle park with jumps and rails, central Switzerland’s longest toboggan run and the chance to try ice-fishing in the lake. Really, though, this is a place to combine winter sports with a large dose of relaxation in the hotel.

Doubles from CHF304 (£209), including breakfast; www.fruttlodge.ch

Wedelhütte

Wedelhütte, above Hochfügen, Austria

Just along the valley from the hard-partying resort of Mayrhofen is Hochzillertal, a ski area which boasts more than 170km of pistes yet is all but overlooked by international visitors. It has expansive, empty slopes and an unforgettable place to stay, the Wedelhütte, which sits at 2,350m, just below the summit of the Marchkopf, and opened in December 2009. Bags are carried up by staff while guests ride the lifts to the highest point in the area, then ski down and check into one of 11 suites, each with a private infra-red sauna cabin. There’s a spa, a steam room and whirlpool and an extensive cellar. A lavish four-course dinner is included – as are sensational views and guaranteed first tracks in the morning.

Doubles from €368 (£308), half-board; www.wedelhuette.at

Alpina Dolomites©Andrea Cazzaniga

Alpina Dolomites, above Siusi, Italy

As guests arrive by cable car at Alpe di Siusi, Europe’s largest high-altitude plateau, a jaw-dropping view reveals itself. All around are the jagged spires of the Dolomites, shapes reflected in the bold architecture of the slick Alpina hotel and spa, which opened its doors in December 2010. The 56-room hotel is the perfect place for beginners or intermediate skiers, with 60km of mainly gentle slopes on the doorstep. Once those are mastered guests can move on to the wider ski area, which boasts 433km of pistes, including the famous Sella Ronda circuit. Back at the hotel, indoor and outdoor swimming pools await, alongside saunas and steam baths. Or you could simply retire to the cigar bar to toast your exploits.

Doubles from €378 (£316) half-board; www.alpinadolomites.it

Seth Morrison

US professional skier Seth Morrison is known for his extreme descents in Alaska, but can also be found relaxing at the small Austrian village of Hochfugen, home of the Wedelhütte

Frantze, above Champoluc, Italy

The pretty village of Champoluc feels a world away from modern ski factories like Val d’Isère and Verbier – the busiest spot is neither nightclub nor boutique, but the butcher’s shop. From there take the cable car up to Frantze, an old wooden farmhouse perched on the mountainside. Built in 1721, it was converted into a hotel in 2010, with a restaurant on the stone-flagged ground floor where animals once slept, and nine bedrooms, a sauna and spa area on the floors above. Heidi would feel at home – the floors, ceilings and walls are wooden – though fluffy robes and soft sheets lend a luxurious touch. It’s perfectly sited for skiing, but would also make an idyllic base for a summer hiking trip.

Doubles from €120 (£100), half-board; www.frantze.it

Tom Robbins is the FT’s travel editor

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