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November 29, 2013 6:17 pm
Take advantage of some great fizz deals at this time of year. Everything here is a champagne unless another appellation is cited after the vintage or “NV” for non-vintage. Wines are listed in ascending order of lowest known price in the UK. They are all likely to be 12-12.5 per cent alcohol unless otherwise noted.
Gobin, Perles de l’Angelier NV France
This is recognisably made from Muscadet with nutty, fresh, ripe distinctive fruit. Something a bit different. 11.5%
£10.99, Amps of Oundle and other independents
J Laurens, Le Moulin Brut NV Blanquette de Limoux
There’s an attractive bit of development on the nose. Very fresh and really quite special for the money. Delicate on the palate. Look out for other bargains from this Languedoc producer.
£12.10, Ditton (sold by the six-bottle case)
Dom de Montbourgeau NV Crémant du Jura
This has a pretty, retro label. Good tang – recognisably Jura – Chardonnay with bite. Clean and revitalising. Less aggressive than a cheap champagne.
£12.50, The Wine Society
Teo Costa, Madre Natura Rosé NV Vino Frizzante
The combination of 100 per cent Nebbiolo and 0 per cent sulphites produces a very gentle, unusual, rose-scented Piemontese fizz that would make a most distinctive aperitif. 10.5%
£16.50, Vini Italiani of London
Forget-Brimont, Brut Premier Cru NV
From the village of Ludes. Open and relatively simple but proper stuff. A tiny bit sweet but reasonably delicate and a lot more refined and fun than the average own-label champagne selling at this price. Nicely balanced even if on the appetising end of the spectrum. Tiny bead. Neat finish.
£21.57, Justerini & Brooks
Barnaut, Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru NV Champagne
Big and brawny. Not that complex but not expensive, especially at the special offer price that lasts until Christmas.
£23.95 (price per bottle for case of six; £27.95 individually), Lea & Sandeman
Pascal Doquet, Horizon Blanc de Blancs Brut NV
This organically certified growers’ champagne has a lightly nutty nose and is chock full of flavour. A steal considering J&B’s margins. I don’t think I would guess it were all Chardonnay; seems slightly richer than many Blanc de Blancs.
£24.07, Justerini & Brooks
Ridgeview, Bloomsbury Merret 2010 England
Signature wine from the estimable Ridgeview. Very frothy. Edgy in terms of acidity. Very clean but pretty tart.
Chartogne-Taillet, Ste-Anne Brut NV
Very racy, direct, clean and breezy. Really neat and concentrated. The flagship blend from this champagne grower in Merfy is a great bargain.
£25, The Wine Society, Fine Wine Direct
Huet Petillant Brut 2007 Vouvray
Based on Chenin Blanc and one of the most welcome variations on the fizz theme: richer and more complex than many champagnes. Pale straw with a steady bead. Young, fresh, floral apple juice. Delicate and rapier-like acidity. Very vibrant.
£25, Berry Bros
Pierre Gimonnet, Cuis Blanc de Blancs Brut Premier Cru NV
Delicate texture but some autolysis on the nose. Real savour and refreshment. Beginning, middle and end to this proper wine – much more interesting than many champagnes at the same price.
£25, The Wine Society
Gusbourne Brut Reserve 2008 England
One of the most toothsome English fizzes with some real depth to it.
£26.45, Berry Bros
Pol Roger NV
A banker of a family-owned champagne. Price will go up once this retailer has sold all the bottles in this batch, which suggests it may have some bottle age.
£29.95, Lea & Sandeman, while stocks last
Agrapart et Fils, Les 7 Crus Blanc de Blancs Brut NV
From the seven villages where Agrapart owns vines, initially aged in old oak barrels. Complex, well-settled nose. Grapefruit peel on the finish after much throat-warming.
£31, The Wine Society
Ruinart, R de Ruinart Brut NV
Bready nose with real interest. Something to get your teeth into. Very clean and neat and tastes as if it had quite a bit of age on lees.
£37.50, Lea & Sandeman, Jeroboams
Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs NV
Grand Cru Chardonnay from le Mesnil, Oger, Avize with a full 48 months on yeast. Signature bottling of this house, a sister to Salon, based on 2006. Quite a bit of age on the nose. Racy and quite delicate on the palate. Well made – just the right quality of fizz.
£37.95, Corney & Barrow
Larmandier-Bernier Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Premier Cru NV
Still one of the finest non-vintage champagnes from a fine, biodynamic grower. Very broad and rich compared with many other handcrafted growers’ champagnes. Quite incredible to think that this is an extra brut in view of the richness on the palate. Clean, refreshing, fabulous! Very persistent.
£39.95, Berry Bros and others
Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve NV
The spearhead of a campaign by the new owner of this house to reposition it firmly upmarket. This cuvée, based on 2007, is very good, with 40 per cent reserve wines up to 10 years old.
About £40 Haynes Hanson & Clark, Noel Young, Bordeaux Index, Harrods, Define, Shills of Cockermouth, Hay Wines, Bennetts of Chipping Campden, The Vineking, Lockett Bros, Valvona & Crolla, The Old Bridge Wine Shop, Selfridges and Fortnum & Mason and other independents
Deutz NV Rosé
One of the most impressive non-vintage pink champagnes I have tasted recently. Good dry finish. Solid matter on the palate.
£43.95, Vagabond Wines and others
Louis Roederer 2006
Very firm, savoury and dense, with lively acidity and a fine bead. Not massively intense or bone dry but very competent.
£44, Berry Bros; £45, The Wine Society
Bollinger, La Grande Année 2004
Hint of oak on the nose. Very winning and interesting. Extremely savoury but with flirtatious lift on the finish. Very persistent.
£65, Noel Young; £80, Berry Bros and others
Nyetimber, Tillington Single Vineyard 2009 England
Winemaker Cherie Spriggs offers record pricing with this all-Pinot bottling from an unusually ripe vintage. Quite deep bronze/pale gold. Heady nose. Lightly apple-y and more interesting than most English fizz. Not the driest but it has some autolysis and interest on the nose. Delicate bead.
£75, Philglas & Swiggot
More stockists at wine-searcher.com. Next week: Jancis’s top whites
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