Slideshow: Raiding Mexico’s larder

Dulce Patria. From left: Esmedregal Ceviche with pineapple, manzano chile and 'la hierba real' (esmedregal, pineapple, cucumber, basil and cilantro vinaigrette, manzano chile and dehydrated pineapple); Sensual Ceviche (esmedregal, coconut, jicama, lychees, red fruit, onion, coconut vinaigrette, piquin chile and jamaica); Vampire Ceviche with mango (esmedregal, mango, sangrita, onion, cilantro, serrano chile, dehydrated mango)

Dulce Patria. Tostadas with marinated salmon and chile chipotle dressing

Dulce Patria. From left: chile de arbool salsa, rose habanero salsa, black habanero salsa and molcajeteada salsa

Dulce Patria. Green and red grilled tomato salad with crunchy quesillo, chapulines [grasshoppers] and epazote

Dulce Patria's Martha Ortiz

Pujol. Huitlacoche tamal, green tomato salsa, recado negro 'ash'

Biko. Bean taco soup

Biko. Carbonated fish (fish with mojo of morcilla and cuitlacoche), pilpil tint, cucumber gazpacho, green tomato and mint, with a dusting of ash and trufa

Biko's extensive spice rack