January 17, 2014 6:51 pm

Ham hock with lentils

‘This dish is still on the menu – though it costs a bit more than the handful of francs I paid in 1978’

It is a place that has little right to be any good. Just over the bridge that links the Ile de la Cité (and Notre Dame) and the more sedate and civilised Ile Saint-Louis.

The ham hock with lentils is still on the menu at the Brasserie de l’Isle Saint-Louis. It costs a bit more than the handful of francs I paid in 1978 but it is still a huge chunk of meat adorned by nothing more than a little thin gravy, some firm green lentils and a pot of mustard

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