The leather-soled velvet monogrammed slipper, traditionally worn with a silk dressing gown for elegant evenings at home – think Prince Albert or Noël Coward – has taken a fashionable step forward into the great outdoors.
“There’s a new thing I’ve noticed,” says Richard Edgecliffe-Johnson, chairman of London’s oldest established shoemakers WS Foster and the bespoke footwear brand Henry Maxwell. “Some young people are starting to wear slippers outside. A young dapper-looking Australian fellow who works for one of our graphic design companies came to the office this summer in a pair of velvet slippers.”
Hilary Freeman, managing director of Edward Green & Co, boot and shoemakers of Northampton, England since 1890, sees the trend gaining traction globally. “We’ve noted a growing interest in our men’s slippers, especially from America,” says Freeman. “This is slowly moving west to Europe, then Russia and onwards. We are even starting to see interest from Japan.”
But with the credit crunch, job layoffs, downsizing and outsizing, is this really the time for an expenditure that might make one look like a member of the landed gentry?
Well, it seems the answer is yes. David Coleridge, managing director of Huntsman, one of the most expensive tailors in Savile Row, extols the virtues of purchasing a new pair of quality shoes – or in this case, slippers – especially during recessionary times. “Invest in good shoes and accessories. Not only can they set the tone of an outfit, but they are often a lesser investment than clothing and, if well looked after, can last as long.”
The Italian businessman and playboy Flavio Briatore, who married 28-year-old “Wonderbra” model Elisabetta Gregoraci in June, may have kicked off the trend when he was spotted wearing men’s slippers sans socks at his wedding. Today, the trend is being fuelled by several factors.
“This is possibly a move towards ‘smart casual’,” says Freeman. “It’s a little less predictable than a pair of moccasins, the first items of footwear to be worn without socks, which started in Italy. I would say it was probably Ralph Lauren who picked up on the sockless trend in Italy and introduced it to the US.”
Another factor is that the monograms themselves are now more fun than fusty, more rock’n’roll than regal. You’re as likely to find a skull and crossbones or a dancing devil as you are royal crowns and Prince of Wales feathers gracing the toes of these comfortable slip-ons that are available in suede, velvet, silk and other plush materials.
“This year, due to popular demand, we extended our slipper range to include new designs such as a skull and crossbones and a seahorse,” says George Glasgow, chairman of GJ Cleverly on London’s Old Bond Street. “We also introduced a dark midnight blue dress slipper in cashmere, which has been very popular because it is not something many shoemakers offer.”
Stubbs & Wootton has taken a more humorous approach to the funny money besetting the world markets. They’ve designed the “currency slippers”, featuring a euro or a dollar, which are embroidered in gold or green metallic thread set on a classic black velvet slipper. Choose between “the euro” in gold or “the dollar” in green.
But many footwear fanciers prefer to design their own monograms to reflect their personal taste or lifestyle. “One of our customers raises a rare breed of cattle and sent us photographs,” says Freeman of Edward Green. “We made deep brown velvet slippers and hand-embroidered two tan cows.”
The laceless, pull-on, tab-fronted fireside dress slipper was popularised by Prince Albert, who married Queen Victoria in 1840. His name is now the generic term for the gentleman’s slipper that is as sturdy as a shoe.
The icons of Hollywood’s golden era embraced the Albert slipper in the 1940s and 1950s.
“People like Clark Gable would wear those kinds of slippers with coloured socks and a matching shirt,” says Stephen Lachter, a shirtmaker at 16 Savile Row. “It’s a casual, yet elegant look.”
Today, adding a pair of leather-soled men’s slippers is one of the newest ways to smarten up one’s wardrobe without breaking the budget. For example, Crockett & Jones’ plain Albert velvet ready-to-wear slippers retail for £115. Their made-to-order line starts at about £150 and can cost as much as £425 if the customer requests a monogram such as a family crest or a company logo.
Edward Green’s custom footwear service, meanwhile, goes a step further. Their Edinburgh model is more of an evening shoe and can be made in matte black calf skin but also in patent leather (perfect for facing the elements) with a silk bow in dark navy, burgundy or green. For added dash they offer a matching silk bow tie, by Drakes of London. Noël Coward, eat your heart out.
Richard Torregrossa is the author of the forthcoming biography, ‘George Clooney: A Celebration of Style’ www.richardtorregrossa.com
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Details
www.wsfoster.com
www.edwardgreen.com
www.gjcleverley.co.uk
www.stubbsandwootton.com
www.h-huntsman.com
www.drakeslondon.com
