Designer jewellery used to be the preserve of the rich and was worn only on special occasions.
Nowadays, with fashion houses launching their own collections, offering a fresh take on the designer tailored jewel at almost every price level, women are able to wear designer jewellery with any outfit and on any occasion – no matter what their budget.
Of course, brands such as Chanel have always offered successful jewellery lines, but they are now joined by a multitude of high-end brands such as Versace, Bottega Veneta, Vivienne Westwood and Escada.
Lower down the price scale, but no less designer, is Emporio Armani, Marni and Diesel, which launched its full collection in April.
All these ranges offer something special. Gone are the days of generic-looking jewellery. The ranges slot into the brand’s style and suit the brand’s customers.
So for Diesel, the 53-piece range is funky with Diesel street-cred and at the height of fashion. It appeals to a young audience, with prices from €50 to €350. It is designed by the Diesel creative team to appeal to the people who buy the clothes and want something fashionable and branded.
Renzo Rosso, founder of Diesel, says: “It is time for a new era in this market. Jewellery is increasingly becoming an essential element for enriching and emphasising personal style. It needs to be innovative with strong design, and fashion jewellery answers this requirement: creativity and originality are key.”
The collection comprises six lines and is made of a variety of materials, including sterling silver, leather, acetate, mother of pearl or abalone, and reconstructed turquoise and coral.
One of the key elements of its Ransom collection, is the use of the Diesel name. Pieces feature a mixture of letters in varying shapes and sizes to make up the word Diesel.
Incorporating a logo or motif unique to the brand is an important factor for the new generation of branded fashion jewellery.
Take Versace’s range of precious jewellery launched in April. The pieces all feature unmistakable Versace symbols such as Medusa and Greek Fret. They are aso a natural match to the clothing and accessory lines. The concept reflects “the same creative vein from the recent runway and accessory collections,” says Paolo Marai, chief executive of Versace Vertime.
For some fashion brands, the jewellery – like other accessories – offers customers that can’t afford to buy the clothing the chance to buy into the world of the brand and accessorise with a designer logo.
So although the Emporio Armani Gioelli (jewels) collection has prices reaching up to £350, it primarily consists of sterling silver pieces, affordably priced between £69 and £150.
Its autumn/winter 2006 collection features silver teamed with semi-precious stones, but mainly richly coloured glass. This does away with the perceived convention that designer jewellery over a certain price has to be precious.
“Our relationship to jewellery is changing – it’s not just about gold and diamonds any more,” says Jan Springer, a marketing consultant. “Brands are bringing out collections in line with fashion seasons, which used to be unheard of.”
Jewellery designer Otazu Rodrigo agrees: “Although diamonds will never die, there is a new movement in jewellery. The quality of this fashion jewellery is very good – they are beautifully made products.”
So even though the Armani jewellery features glass “stones”, they are cut and set in a precise and elaborate way to create striking pieces.
Marni’s directional jewellery range features materials including seeds from South America and Africa, woods from the Philippines, resins, leather, feathers, fabric origamis, Swarowski crystals and natural fibres. Its chains are made of brass, Marni fabrics or hand woven Iraca (soft wicker).
The pieces are handmade in Italy and, “although the materials are not precious, what makes the item valued is the high degree of research and craftsmanship involved in its production,” says Marni designer Consuelo Castiglioni. And with prices starting in the low hundreds, these pieces are affordable, while their status on the catwalks makes them desirable.
However, fashion jewellery can also be real jewellery. Versace’s new high-end collection features 18 carat gold with diamonds and has prices reaching to €40,000.
“Many other fashion brands position their jewellery at lower prices, but we think the luxury fashion segment is becoming an important market. People will spend money if there is good design from a good brand,” says Mr Marai.
His conviction is strong and Versace already has plans to open 20 boutiques worldwide selling its high-end precious lines.
Bottega Veneta has also launched its first collection of fine jewellery consisting of handbraided 18 carat gold chains.
Crafted in a small workshop in Germany, the designs are so complex that new tools had been invented to make them and it takes one person a week to create a medium-length chain.
“I think we’ve created the kind of jewellery our customers want and expect from Bottega Veneta,” says creative director Tomas Maier. “These are pieces that are unique, meticulously made and luxurious in a very personal way.”



