Twiggy wears a pair of brogues made for her by British shoemaker George Cleverley in the early 1970s

Yes, the 1980s are back, courtesy of Balmain’s door-busting shoulder pads and the remake of one of the decade’s seminal films, Fame. But, in one respect at least, fashion has moved on (thank God). In those days, women relied on the “working girl” trainer to get from Tube train to boardroom; today’s business women can call on the infinitely more stylish and equally comfortable brogue. From experts such as Church’s and Repetto, to collaborative pairings including Olivia Morris for Grenson, Yohji Yamamoto for Salvatore Ferragamo and J Maskrey for Brazilian shoe label Melissa, women’s footwear is having a male moment.

Amanda Scott, director of women’s accessories at John Lewis, where sales of women’s brogues have doubled in the past month, says: “Once a fashion trend like brogues starts to impact on sales at John Lewis, you know it’s infiltrated everywhere. This season’s mannish trend has not only affected sales of brogues, which have performed consistently well, but has also seen sales of small size men’s shirts and cardigans rise as women seek authentic ‘boyfriend’ outfits.”

Jean-Marc Gaucher, chief executive of Repetto, says: “Many young women who grew up wearing branded trainers are now after something just as comfortable, more grown-up, yet maintaining that tough sports/dance attitude.” The Parisian dance shoe label is perhaps best known for its signature jazz shoe, which made the leap from the dance studio to the street in the shape of sturdy lace-up brogues. Every two months Repetto’s brogue collection (from £145) is updated with new colours and materials, and next August sees the opening of a stand-alone space in London’s Selfridges.

“With most shoes, you put them on and have to wear them in,” says Rebecca Lewison-White, manager of Black Truffle, an independent shoe store in London. “With the Repetto brogues, the minute you put them on they fit perfectly.”

Church’s, the historic British shoemakers bought by the Prada Group in 1999, has also been adding a new version of its classic Burwood brogue every season. In addition to classic black and tan versions, the current line (from £190) includes a tartan brogue that combines leather with woven Scottish fabric.

Church’s tartan version and Yohji Yamamoto’s for Salvatore Ferragamo

Tim Little, Grenson’s creative director, says: “Women who buy their shirts at Turnbull & Asser or their suits on Savile Row want the latest thing, something totally unique. With the brogue, not only do you get a proper pair of shoes but a pair of shoes which looks better and becomes more comfortable as time goes on. Men have long known about this ‘investment’ factor and now, it seems, women are cottoning on to it too.”

Olivia Morris’s made-to-order Grenson brogues (£200) are the first ladies’ shoes the traditional men’s wear brand has sold.

“I learnt that there is a real balance that you have to get right between traditional and contemporary,” says Morris. “It’s not about over-designing something new but more about bringing a classic shoe up to date and making it contemporary.” Apparently, she’s not the only one who likes the result. Following the sell-out success of the first order, Grenson’s is producing a second batch, due to arrive in its London stores in November.

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Flat feet

From Marlene Dietrich to Ellen DeGeneres, the brogue has played a crucial role in the lives and looks of the past century’s boldest dressers. Here’s a who’s who of the shoe’s most famous exponents, writes Rebecca Johnson.

1920s Marlene Dietrich, the woman responsible for most things mannish on the catwalk. She wore tuxedos, cut her hair short and strutted around town in a pair of dapper brogues, spearheading a trend for androgyny that has never disappeared.

1930s Norma Shearer, one of cinema’s feminist pioneers and star of the film The Divorcee, was a fan of flat footwear and would team her white brogues with argyle knit stockings and a cloche hat.

1940s ­The Landgirls. From boxy tweed separates to lace-up brogues, this wartime style was “make-do-and mend”. Functionality became key, and that meant flat shoes.

1950s Katharine Hepburn, Hollywood’s anti-glamour heroine, showed in films such as African Queen that the “gentler sex” could wear the trousers – and the brogues too.

1960s The Modette. The women of Britain’s Mod movement had short, boyish haircuts, used little make-up and wore flat lace-up Winklepickers, which were a pointy-toed brogue.

1970s Twiggy, famously skinny and hip British model, and the first woman to convince shoemaker George Cleverley, who specialised in bespoke shoes for men, to make her a pair of flats. In 1972 he crafted the two-tone brogue (pictured above) especially for her.

1980s Annie Lennox, Eurythmics singer and queen of the pin-striped suit, white shirt, red tie and ginger crop. Her gender-neutral look was completed by a pair of buffed leather brogues.

1990s Ellen DeGeneres, stand-up comedienne and star of the sitcom Ellen, who donned a pair of two-tone lace-ups – controversially – at the Oscars.

2000s Alexa Chung, US MTV presenter rarely seen in anything with a heel, and the banner woman for the Noughties brogue. Pairing her flats with short skirts, cardigans and bare legs, she proves the footwear can be feminine, too.

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Details

www.churchfootwear.com
www.grenson.co.uk
www.melissaplasticdreams.com
www.oliviamorrisshoes.com
www.repetto.com
www.salvatoreferragamo.it
www.timlittle.com