For old China hands, it would seem improbable to be sitting on a sweeping terrace overlooking Beijing’s Tiananmen Square, eating a freshly-shucked Tasmanian oyster and sipping a New Zealand sauvignon blanc. But on a recent balmy evening, diners were doing just that at Capital M, one of the newest, and most stylish, additions to Beijing’s rapidly evolving restaurant scene.
The creative food and striking interior design at Capital M reflect both contemporary good taste and a certain cheeky flair – evident in the colourful, river-themed mural running the length of the restaurant, the bold, geometric-design parquet floors, stand-alone fireplaces and elegant table and glassware.
The food lives up to menu descriptions that display both a sense of fun and serious gastronomic focus, such as “pigeon, twice cooked so oh juicy & crispy, with boudin noir and harissa”, and “the mayor of Nice’s slowly braised oxtail”. Imaginative cocktails, such as Shanghai Mule, provide a local twist on old favourites, while the wine list is well-balanced in both geographic and varietal terms.
“M” stands for Australian restaurateur Michelle Garnaut, who first made her mark on fine dining in north Asia with her M at the Fringe, opened in Hong Kong in 1989, and then, 10 years later, with the launch of the fabled M on the Bund, on Shanghai’s waterfront. Capital M is the product of seven years of negotiation and planning.
Though large, with nearly 400 seats, Capital M avoids the “hangar” feeling so common in big restaurants by dividing its main restaurant and its panoramic wraparound terrace from the more intimate lounge and M’s bar. Admittedly, terraces have limited use in Beijing, given the capital’s extreme weather, but the in-between seasons are surprisingly mild, and Capital M’s al fresco seats are already in demand.
The menu options at Capital M seem infinite. If there is one criticism, there’s almost too much on offer. The lounge menu features daily specials such as two tarts of the day for Rmb58, as well as canapés and heartier offerings for a range of appetites and wallets – indulge in Beluga caviar on crêpe parmentier for Rmb348 ($51); or “audacious aubergines”, done three ways and looking as artful – and yes, audacious – as they taste.
The canapés include some inspired bar snacks, such as tiny fried potatoes filled with sea urchin roe, and salmon “stacks” with salmon roe and avocado. There is also a daily smorrebrod menu of Danish open-face sandwiches piled high with toppings such as steak tartare; a special lunch menu; and an afternoon tea menu. If that’s not enough, on Sundays there is M’s “big brunch”.
The main restaurant menu features some signature “M” dishes, including succulent, salt-baked lamb and hot house-smoked salmon with poached egg; as well as numerous new creations, such as fesenjan, a Persian duck stew with walnuts and pomegranates; zarzuela, a Catalan seafood stew; and a risotto of exotic mushrooms and mascarpone cheese. The desserts include “M’s very famous pavlova”, the meringue, cream and fruit concoction so loved by Australians, and an excellent hot raspberry soufflé with almond ice cream.
As one diner remarked, “Simply good food, indeed – no foam or towers here.”
Capital M, 3/F, No 2 Qianmen Street, overlooking Tiananmen Square, Beijing; tel: (+86 10) 6702 2727; www.m-restaurantgroup.com
