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© The Financial Times Ltd 2012 FT and 'Financial Times' are trademarks of The Financial Times Ltd.
Paris - Dries van Noten - The Dutch designer's latest collection
Paris - Hermes - The show revolved around lustrous textures - finest cashmere, butter soft leather and decadent astrakhan coats
Paris - Lanvin - A rich colour palette of autumnal tones, coupled with playful stripes, striped three-piece suits and an equestrian-esque headgear made Lanvin one of the highlights of the week
Paris - Paul Smith - One of the great British masters of classic design revamped a conventional puffer jacket as a cool new reworking of the courtier's vest
Paris - Yves Saint Laurent - Stefano Pilati's clean, sleek and simple collection was an ode to black leather
Giorgio Armani – The show revolved around lean and lightweight tweed 3-pieces, brilliantly cut and here matched with a chunky tie, all in a range of clacks, browns, anthracites and smoky greys
Salvatore Ferragamo - Designer Massimiliano Giornetti went for a sensitive career man look, offering slate gray leather spy trench-coats with felt interiors, turned up collars and soft envelope-style briefcases
Ermenegildo Zegna – The boyish collection featured slim plaid, checked or houndstooth tailored suits as well as haute-luxe cashmere puffer jackets, alpaca parkas and suede trousers
Prada – The “Il Palazzo” show featured a rarefied gang of Hollywood actors taking to the catwalk, including Willem Dafoe, Gary Oldman, Tim Roth and Adrien Brody. Military inspired coats, complete with medal-style decorations, followed a slew of Edwardian patrician top coats, all in sleek cashmere or quirky tie-fabrics and worn over lean serge wool suits
Calvin Klein – The collection was awash with leather sweatshirts textured to look like concrete, or transparent puffer vests with exposed feathering – giving the show a modern, urban feel. Outerwear was often oversized, in buttery caramels or soft greys and blues, with matching city loafers to compliment the colour palette
Gucci - The 19th century absinthe-drinking poet Arthur Rimbaud was the primary inspiration of Gucci’s latest collection, full of faded paisley pants and jackets in burnt autumnal tones and battered shearling bomber jackets
Bottega Veneta – Tomas Maier’s collection was a masterclass in texture blocking: patchwork tweed jackets were carefully mismatched against tapered trousers with quilted panels, whilst cool suits were embossed with paint splashes
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