WEEKEND COLUMNISTS I did my best to look appreciative but I have never liked the look of artichokes. Among his old roses, philadelphus and clematis and quite a few things neither of us knew the names of, a solitary artichoke loomed up out of Dave’s herbaceous border like a hoodie at a Glyndebourne picnic. After all, an artichoke is only a thistle with a passport, bearing that plant’s same unpleasant prickly attributes. With its head most resembling a piece of medieval weaponry and an aggressive defence mechanism in the form of thorns and choke, it is easy not to love an artichoke.
It is not just a question of appearance or of having nasty prickly bits. The unpleasantness of the artichoke goes a bit deeper. They are a real chore to prepare, undoubtedly a satisfying chore but a chore nevertheless. The thorns are annoying and the taste of raw artichokes on the hands is truly acrid and unpleasant.
Perhaps the answer is to wear rubber or surgical gloves, as most of my cooks do for almost any kitchen work. I prefer to do the work bare handed and punctuated by frequent washing of the hands, sometimes, in extremis, with additional rubbing with lemon.
Why do I bother with artichokes you may ask, but the answer is obvious. There is a satisfaction in producing a dish of beautifully prepared artichokes: it is one of those little triumphs of art over nature that we cooks hold most dear.
More to the point, when the work is done and this nasty, prickly hoodlum of the flowerbed has been transformed into carciofi alla Guidia or artichauts à la Barigoule, one realises that it is a prince among vegetables, with its rich subtle flavour. It hurts me to say it but beneath the artichoke’s prickly and aggressive exterior, there beats a sweet and tender heart.
Rowley Leigh is the chef at Le Café Anglais
rowley.leigh@ft.com
More columns at www.ft.com/leigh
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Artichokes à la barigoule
Large artichokes are normally stuffed à la barigoule. Baby artichokes can be trimmed the same way and then braised with the chopped ham and mushrooms in the braising liquid of white wine and olive oil. They are both best enjoyed as a course in their own right with some fresh crusty bread as sole accompaniment. One of artichoke’s little difficulties is that it is unkind to wine.
Ingredients
6 large artichokes
Two lemons, halved
1 shallot
1 clove garlic
Olive oil
100g raw ham or bacon (the butt of a Parma ham is ideal if you have a friendly delicatessen)
400g mushrooms
Thyme, bay leaves, a teaspoon of peppercorns
125ml white wine
Method
● Break and pull the stalks of the artichokes away from the heads, pulling the tough fibres away with them. With a sharp serrated knife, cut the artichokes across the middles, removing the tops of the leaves but approximately 1cm above the level of the hearts. Likewise cut across the base, revealing the hearts and rub very well with half a lemon. With a small sharp knife and a circular action, trim away the leaves from around the base so that the heart is fully exposed and continue to rub periodically with the lemon. Continue until all the artichokes have well-rounded hearts and a crown of tender leaves above. Boil these in well salted water for 15 minutes and then allow to cool.
● Finely chop the shallot and garlic and soften for 10 minutes in a tablespoon of olive oil on a gentle heat. Finely chop the ham and add to the pan for a few minutes before following with the finely chopped mushrooms (they can be chopped in batches on the “pulse” button of a food processor but be careful not to make a purée). Season well and add a couple of sprigs of thyme and stew gently until the mushrooms render their liquid and the mixture forms a sort of paste. Allow to cool.
● Once the artichokes have cooled, remove the chokes from the centres: this is best done by hand, pushing down and away with the thumb until the choke gives and can be lifted out. Make sure every hair of choke is gone and then replace with a spoonful of the stuffing mixture. Pour the white wine into a sauté pan with four tablespoons of olive oil, some more thyme, the peppercorns, three bay leaves and a good pinch of salt. Stand the artichokes upright in this mixture, cover with greaseproof paper and bring to a boil. Cook for 15 minutes and allow to cool. The artichokes can be served hot and cold and are better reheated, than served immediately.
