Island retreats in the Mediterranean

The Kornati islands, Croatia

We were sailing up the Adriatic, pushed by the Sirocco wind, when an archipelago appeared: about 100 islands of every shape and size. Arid, covered in rocks or olive trees, they protruded from the sea like upside-down craters – the Kornati.

With the calm water, it almost seemed as if we could walk from one island to another. Below its clear surface, dolphins and seagrass meadows could be seen.

Traces of the past – foundations, fallen remnants of columns and capitals from the 1st century AD – can be found near the tiny ports. There are long dry-stone walls, used to enclose sheep, and simple houses, many of which are for rent.

After the long sea crossing, a restaurant, in a fisherman’s house, appeared like a mirage. We were brought a huge oval platter of spaghetti and lobster (that we had seen being taken from the sea), and grilled fish that, together with the wine, satisfied all our desires. Francesco da Mosto

For details, see kornati.hr

Francesco da Mosto is a Venetian architect, writer and TV presenter. He is the author of ‘Francesco’s Mediterranean Voyage’

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Bozcaada, Turkey

Not all Aegean islands are Greek. Bozcaada, one of the Turkish-owned pair guarding the Dardanelles, is an enchanting anomaly, a 30-minute ferry ride from mainland Geyikli and a must-see for visitors to nearby Troy or the Gallipoli battlefields.

The four-mile island, untouched by package tourism but increasingly popular with arty Istanbullus, is fronted by a beautiful harbour town of shaded lanes, neoclassical mansions serving as stylish small hotels such as the Kaikias (kaikias.com), and traditional wineries. These mostly turn out fearsome plonks from the local Karalahana grape, though newly established winemakers such as Amadeus have lately transformed the island’s output.

Hire a bike or scooter to explore the lanes leading through vineyards to fine sandy beaches such as Ayazma and Ayana – though expect chillier seas this far north. Check out the private museum to discover the island’s Greek heritage. Eat outstanding yaprak dolma (hot vine leaves stuffed with rice) at Hasan Tefik (Alsancak Sokak 2). Jeremy Seal

For details of ferries to Bozcaada, see gestasdenizulasim.com.tr/en

Jeremy Seal is the author of two books about Turkey, ‘A Fez of the Heart’ and ‘Meander’

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Dragonera and Cabrera, Spain

The ancient Mallorcans didn’t welcome visitors. Foreign merchants were allowed to land on islets just off the coast to load up with Mallorcan salt: primitive offshore trading. But there are two larger, habitable islands off the southern and westernmost tips of Mallorca: the humpbacked Dragonera (also known as “Lizard” island, a naturalist’s paradise) and Cabrera (or “Goat” island, with its natural harbour and spectacular sea caves). Dragonera’s only inhabitants have been lighthouse keepers but Cabrera was first settled in 500AD by Christian hermits, producing purple dye, and from 1809 to 1814 it was a prisoner-of-war camp for 9,000 of Napoleon’s soldiers. In the 1980s, massive street protests (in which I participated as a musician) stopped a tourist development scheme on Dragonera and reclaimed Cabrera from the military. Today both are national parks, open to visitors in daylight hours. Boat trips are available from Sant Elm (for Dragonera) and Colònia Sant Jordi (Cabrera). Tomás Graves

For details, see cruceroscormoran.com/en and excursionsacabrera.es/web/en.

Tomás Graves, son of poet Robert Graves, is the author of ‘Bread and Oil’ and ‘Tuning Up At Dawn’ about the history and culture of Mallorca, where he lives

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Kythira, Greece

Kythira is a small, picture-perfect Ionian island opposite the southeastern tip of the Peloponnese peninsula with a dramatic, rugged landscape. Steep, rocky cliffs swoop down to meet deep, turquoise waters so clean and clear that it’s hard to imagine anyone has even dipped their toes in the water before you.

I stayed on the eastern side of the island in a sweet little coastal village called Avlemonas, with family-run cafés, bars and tavernas bringing the place to life.

It was tempting to look no further than this pretty little spot, but I was glad I did. Driving on, I came across the village of Potamos and its old-fashioned general store. Opened in 1945, it was an Aladdin’s cave, bursting with bounty from fabrics to old-fashioned fans. Claire Lloyd

Claire Lloyd is the author of ‘My Greek Island Home’, and runs a guesthouse on Lesbos (mygreekislandhomeguesthouse.com)