The British have enjoyed a somewhat ambiguous relationship with their national flag in the past few decades. In the 1960s the Mods adopted it as a trademark, in the 1970s punks ripped it up and studded it with safety pins, and in the 1980s the National Front took it as their standard. In the late 1990s Liam Gallagher and Patsy Kensit wrapped themselves up in it for the cover of Vanity Fair and the advent of Cool Britannia, and then - oh, the indignity - Spice Girl Geri Halliwell wore it on a mini-dress.
Having survived these traumas, the original red, white and blue is 400 years old this month. It was created by merging the flags of England and Scotland when the countries were joined by the Scottish king James VI, who had recentlyalso ascended to the Englishthrone. Strangely the British government isn't planning any great celebration for the icon, a fact that has caused considerable consternation among certain commentators, but the fashion world at least has run it up the flag pole and saluted it.
The tailor, 40 Savile Row, has a line of suits with a union flag lining and the look has proved very successful. "We started for Euro 2000 but it ended up being so popular with all kinds of customers that we've continued it ever since," says managing director Jeffrey Doltis. "It's instantly recognisable but putting it inside so that it just shows occasionally is quirky and fun and men like that."
"It's very distinctive and attention-grabbing for all kinds of reasons," says jeweller Theo Fennell, who has included Union flags on cufflinks, watches and currently a diamond-covered white gold horn pendant. "There is so much associated with it - from flags pitched at the very ends of the Empire to Carnaby Street and the swinging London of the 1960s. It has a natural feel-good quality about it and the fact that it's slightly asymmetrical means that it's always interesting to play with."
Designers at the street end of fashion have also been having fun with this paradoxically rebellious emblem of the establishment. The Sixty label has included it in a monochrome washed-out blue, sometimes alongside a gold braid flying badge, on relaxed cotton blousons. But the designer that has made most of the Union flag is Fake London.
"You can do all kinds of things to it, have great creative fun with it, and it's still very recognisable," says the company's Dean Bristow. This season Fake London is putting a version on cashmere sweaters and pinstriped jackets. "It's so strong that you can change the colour or use it in abstract ways and it still works - especially with cut-and-sew appliqué. We've reproduced it on T-shirts in the Cuban national flag colours of red, gold and green. We also did a cream and beige version and immediately got an order for 14 boxes to the States."
It might be particularly in vogue at the moment but the red, white and blue has a strong fashion heritage, as another street label, Ben Sherman, demonstrates. "Ben Sherman was the original Mod God and went on to dress the swinging Sixties," says the company. "The brand originated in 1963 and with its strong British roots it features the Union Jack on many of its designs including watches, cufflinks, flasks, caps, key-rings and business card holders."
Paul Smith has also used the design frequently - this season on a belt and next on cufflinks. "We are, after all, one of the best-known British designers," says a spokeswoman.
And it's not only designers from these shores who have co-opted the British flag. Everyone from Dolce & Gabbana (which currently has it in dog tags) to Dries van Noten and Comme des Garçons has had a stab, and German knitwear house Falke currently has a range of Union flag socks. Rather unpatriotic, surely?
"Ralph Lauren started doing this kind of thing with the stars and stripes but currently that is a bit of a 'no go'," says Falke's UK sales manager Christian Dieng. "We've used the Swiss flag because it's elegant and neutral and makes people think of safety and mountains but the Union flag says a lot more.
"It's still associated around the world with things like creativity and pop music and, of course, royalty - almost every country is fascinated by that."
