© The Financial Times Ltd 2016 FT and 'Financial Times' are trademarks of The Financial Times Ltd.
December 28, 2012 5:59 pm
What? Who knew the abominable snowman was a trendsetter? Yet out of the mountainous wilds of Nepalese legend has come winter’s hottest (we mean this literally) look. ’Tis the season of yeti-wear, from head-to-toe textured furs to fuzzy shagpiles, closely clipped “teddy-bear” shearlings and random wefts of goat hair. Real or faux, anything goes as long as it’s follicly fabulous.
Why? Mother nature knows what she’s doing. When temperatures drop and days shorten, the instinct of animals is to hibernate. Denied the opportunity to sleep the season away (fashion never rests, after all), designers have come up with the next best thing: the portable comforter. Think of it as a cave for the body and cuddle up inside.
Where? For Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton went large with the trend, using puffballs of foot-deep Mongolian lamb and hairy goat fur-belted coats as well as a flurry of ostrich feather strapless dresses. Emma Hill at Mulberry took inspiration from Maurice Sendak’s classic children’s book Where the Wild Things Are (1963), with shaggy head-to-toe goat fur – gilets and A-line skirts – as well as touchy-feely layers of sheepskin zipped over knits.
“The idea of furry, warm and snuggly texture was central to the collection,” says Mulberry’s creative director Emma Hill. “You need to stay warm – and a furry-textured jacket or gilet adds a new dimension to classic winter silhouettes.”
At Fendi, Karl Lagerfeld took animal pelts and made them look out of this world, with multicoloured shaggy fur “sweaters” that could have been culled straight from the back of some psychedelic extraterrestrial beast – a style also in evidence in the painstakingly pieced-together fake “monster chubbies” on the runway at Meadham Kirchhoff in London. There was also Wunderkind’s dip-dyed multiple-fur, Acne’s fur front ankle boots, extra-long rabbit fur “mittens” at Hockley and shearling and suede earmuffs from Karl Donohue (£110, www.net-a-porter.com).
Should you invest? What gets you through this cold spell will work again and again – just ask the bear next door. If the idea of amortising costs over time doesn’t work for you, however, a more affordable way into the trend can be found via Zara’s shaggy black sheepskin with Mongolian lamb-style cuffs and collar, Topshop’s faux fur knitted sleeve coat, or one of Karen Millen’s café-au-lait sheepskin gilets.
And it’s not just for winter. Laura Larbalestier, buying director at London fashion boutique Browns, says: “The trend may have started this season, with furry coats and details on hats and collars, but what looks really fresh for spring are Céline’s fur shoes and cuffs. We already have a waiting list for them.”
www.selfridges.com (Gareth Pugh)
www.net-a-porter.com (Meadham Kirchhoff)
Copyright The Financial Times Limited 2016. You may share using our article tools.
Please don't cut articles from FT.com and redistribute by email or post to the web.