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April 25, 2014 7:39 pm
It was difficult to think of a wine estate on the right bank of Bordeaux, with its famous twin appellations of Pomerol and St-Émilion, that had changed as little as Château Figeac in the 64 years that it was run by one owner, Thierry Manoncourt. Most of the other châteaux on this side of the Gironde have changed ownership and consultants with dizzying frequency, and most at Figeac’s level have flirted with overt new oak and extreme ripeness levels, often leading to a stylistic yo-yo.
Under Manoncourt, Figeac ploughed a lonely furrow of classicism, refusing to bend to short-term fashions. As a trained agronomist he was unusually involved in winemaking and initiated a wide variety of improvements in vineyard and cellar, yet the style of the wine remained consistent, never flashy. In fact it often failed to shine when served blind in the early primeur tastings, perhaps partly because Figeac’s deep gravels, most unusually, allow Cabernet Sauvignon, which represents about a third of vines planted, to thrive and ripen fully. (The earlier ripening Merlot and Cabernet Franc are the usual ingredients in right-bank wines.)
Château Figeac seemed to need a good decade in bottle before really communicating its charms – and a 60-year retrospective held in Paris in 2007 was one of the most thrilling Bordeaux tastings I can remember. We started with Manoncourt’s first vintage in situ, 1947, and, while its quality did not match the famous 1947 from Figeac’s neighbour Château Cheval Blanc, the 1950, 1955, 1959, 1961, 1964 and 1975 were virtually perfect, with many younger vintages waiting in the wings to take over the glory. (Visitors to Château Figeac were often treated to the story of how Cheval Blanc owed its prowess to its luck in acquiring a prime slice of Figeac from a previous owner.)
St-Émilion is unique in Bordeaux for revising its classification very publicly every few years. It always rankled with Manoncourt that, while Cheval Blanc and Ausone alone occupied the top A tier, Figeac was relegated, along with about a dozen others, to B rank. We have to give thanks in a way that, although Manoncourt gave every impression of being immortal, he didn’t live to see the promotion in 2012 of Châteaux Angélus and Pavie, in some ways the antithesis of Figeac, to A rank. It might have killed him.
As it was, he died just before his glorious 2010 vintage was picked. He is survived by his vivacious widow Marie-France, who for the next year or two continued with the status quo, their son-in-law Comte Eric d’Aramon having been involved with the management of the estate since 1988. But in February last year, it was announced that Jean-Valmy Nicolas from the family that owns the nearby Pomerol estate Château La Conseillante had been appointed non-executive director of Figeac.
A few weeks later the well-oiled Bordeaux gossip machine went into overdrive at the news that d’Aramon and his wife Laure, the eldest of the Manoncourts’ four daughters, had been shown the door, to be replaced as managing director by 32-year-old Frédéric Faye who had joined Figeac 10 years before as vineyard manager. Even more inflammatory was the news, published on April 1 last year, of the appointment of the famously modernising consultant oenologist Michel Rolland. Indeed, some commentators were convinced it was an April Fool, so apparently contradictory were the auras of the grand old classicist Manoncourt and Rolland, demonised in the film Mondovino as the king of micro-oxygenation and all manner of interventionist techniques.
Since then the world of wine has been puzzled by the likely future of the Château Figeac wines. Were they about to be subjected to the turbocharged winemaking recipes associated with the Rolland stereotype? Were the Manoncourts going hell for leather for promotion to A rank next time the wines of St-Émilion are reclassified?
I had a chance to get some answers just before Easter when Madame Manoncourt, her youngest daughter Hortense and Faye came to London, bringing 13 vintages of Figeac with them, including the 2013, the first to be made in the new Rolland era. Nature supplied some pretty uninspiring ingredients in the 2013 vintage. The wines generally lack concentration and focus, and it has proved virtually impossible to make exuberantly showy wines at even the most exhibitionistic addresses. But it certainly didn’t look as though Figeac had turned a dramatic corner with the 2013 vintage. Perhaps more to the point, I learnt more about Rolland’s appointment – instigated, Madame Manoncourt insisted, by the retirement of their old consultant oenologist, Gilles Pauquet. “It would have been impossible to hire someone from the left bank,” she shuddered.
Faye, a personable young man brought up on a Périgord farm who first qualified as an engineer in Bordeaux, smiled when asked how long he had known Rolland. “All my life, 33 years,” he said. Faye worked the 2008 vintage on Rolland’s joint venture in northern Argentina, Yacochuya. He insisted that he was well able to countermand Rolland or at least disagree with his advice. “He has promised not to change the style of Figeac, and after all, we have had the same cellarmaster at Figeac for 32 years!” But, Faye insisted, Rolland is a master blender and that is why he has been drafted in to this historic estate, its nearly 100 acres of vines on a complex mix of gravels, clay and sandy alluvium producing wines of particularly varied qualities and styles – not least because of its almost equal proportions of three different grape varieties.
Thierry Manoncourt had been the first right- bank proprietor to introduce the concept of a second wine, La Grange Neuve de Figeac, the produce of specific, underperforming plots of vines. But from the 2012 vintage this has been replaced by Petit-Figeac, a second wine that is a blend of the least successful vats each year. It gives the much-discussed newcomer something other than Figeac’s immutable terroir to get his teeth into.
Tasting notes on Purple Pages of JancisRobinson.com
Stockists from winesearcher.com
Some especially successful recent Figeac vintages
With average pre-tax prices, as calculated by winesearcher.com
• 2011 £72
• 2010 £178
• 2008 £65
• 2006 £72
• 2005 £101
• 2004 £69
• 2001 £93
• 2000 £115
• 1998 £114
Petit-Figeac 2010 is the second wine from a vintage that seems especially successful for this renowned St-Émilion, made from the last grapes to have been overseen by the late Thierry Manoncourt. A (relative) bargain from under €34 in France.
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