How to prepare and cook squid

Squid, for some reason, is not all that popular an ingredient to cook with, whether that is because people are put off by the preparation or perhaps because it just looks plain ugly. It’s a shame because squid has a lot to recommend it. It’s relatively inexpensive, very adaptable and can be cooked in a multitude of ways – pan fried, deep fried, braised or grilled. Home cooks are often intimidated by it, but they shouldn’t be, as many methods of cooking it are extremely straightforward. To grill it, for example, simply marinade the squid in a little olive oil, garlic and thyme, then grill lightly on each side for a minute or two and finish with lemon juice.

Even the preparation of the raw squid shouldn’t hold any fears. The easiest way is to discard the thin film of the outer skin and the two flaps on either side of the body (which can also be cooked). Then pull out the head and cut across the tentacles just below the eyes – you will see a beak which you can remove. Then thoroughly clean the inside of the empty tail with cold water. Either cut this into rings or cut it down one side and slice it into strips.

We should use more squid, as stocks are in good supply – it does not have a minimum landing size (the smallest length at which it is legal to keep or sell a fish) or quota, so we can use it often and stay within sustainable fishing boundaries.

Tom Aikens is the chef at Tom’s Kitchen in London (www.tomskitchen.co.uk)

Rowley Leigh is away

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Deep fried paprika squid with lime

Ingredients

(Serves five)

For the aioli mayonnaise:

4g English mustard

4 cloves garlic, chopped finely

2g salt

Pinch of cayenne pepper

0.3g milled black pepper

6g white wine vinegar

2 egg yolks

300ml vegetable oil

Large pinch smoked paprika

2 tsp water

For the beignet batter:

Juice of 2 limes

300g self-raising flour

150g cornflour

75g baking powder

1 pinch paprika

Salt and pepper

For the squid:

1 litre of vegetable oil or groundnut oil

4g paprika

200g flour

Zest and juice of 2 limes

400g prepared medium squid cut into rings approximately 0.5cm in thickness, with the tentacles left whole

6 sliced spring onions

1 red chilli, finely sliced

1 coriander leaf

Method

● Start by preparing the mayonnaise. Whisk the mustard, garlic, salt, pepper, vinegar and egg yolks in a bowl then slowly add the oil, whisking well. Add the paprika. You may need to add a little water as it might get too thick and curdle.

● Next make the batter by mixing the lime juice with the dry ingredients, and adding some iced cold water until it has the consistency of double cream.

● Put the oil into a deep saucepan so that the pan is half full and heat it to 180°C.

● Place the paprika, flour and lime zest into a bowl, add the squid, then drop it into the batter.

● Place the battered squid into the hot oil until it is golden brown, about three minutes. To serve, sprinkle with the lime juice, spring onion slices, chopped chilli and coriander leaf, add a little more paprika and season. Eat straight away, with the mayonnaise.