The news that this weekend’s Visa Swap loft , one of a growing number of markets set up for those wanting to trade wardrobes, will include men’s wear for the first time confirms what is becoming increasingly obvious: that the effects of credit crunches have no gender bias as far as the wardrobe goes. Indeed, according to James Hibbert, founder of bespoke tailor Dress2Kill, “Customers are boxing more clever.”

Somewhat illogically, this translates as: off-the-peg can be a false economy. But, points out Hibbert, “With bespoke and made-to-measure we can give a suit an MOT any number of times during its life: re-line jackets, check the buttons, provide double crotch and seat reinforcements ... Furthermore, suits can be let out or taken in by up to two inches depending on the inlay, with scope for half to three-quarters of an inch adjustments on the sleeve.”

Chris Kerr, who runs a bespoke tailors under his name in London’s Soho alongside his father, Eddie, who founded the business 40 years ago, also cites the durability of bespoke as an asset to invest in. “Bespoke has three layers, which together form the suit, whereas suits bought off the peg have a single canvas shaped by a process of fusing that glues together pieces of material,” says Kerr. “This means that the latter cannot be restored.”

To maximise the life of a suit, Kerr advises against the highest and finest grades of wool and cotton – “Super 100 is about as high as you would want to go” – and suggests classic designs that won’t date. “You don’t really need an extravagant label or finish, either,” he says.

Perhaps this explains the customer who recently returned to Karl Dunkley’s Grosvenor Shirts with 11 bespoke favourites he wanted restored with new collars and cuffs. “Those who want to keep the same shade of the original, some actually ask for extra cuffs and collars when they have their shirts made,” says Dunkley. “Others might prefer to keep some cloth spare themselves, for us to use as required. One’s neck often gets thicker with age. But a collar can be extended by at least a half inch.”

Dunkley adds that another benefit of bespoke is its ability to exploit every last inch of fabric. “When we have completed a bespoke order for a shirt, which uses about two metres of cloth, we can make everything from boxer shorts to handkerchiefs with the off cuts,” he says.

This sort of economy of scale also underscores a traditional form of shrewd shopping: the purchase of two trousers with every jacket. Because men often remove their jackets during the working day, saving them from the extensive wear that trousers cannot escape, having an extra pair can actually double the life of a suit.

“Besides, a second pair of trousers also means you dry clean them less frequently – a process which can take its toll on the fabric,” says Chris Modoo of Ede & Ravenscroft.

“Edward VIII would always have two pairs of trousers made with his suits. He insisted upon it,” adds Modoo. Prudent shopping by Royal Appointment then.

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Details

www.dress2kill.com
www.chriskerrtailoring.co.uk
www.grosvenorshirts.com
www.edeandravenscroft.co.uk