Eco-friendly fabrics

Images from Loro Piana’s ‘Baby Cashmere: The Long Journey of Excellence’, a book charting cashmere production in Mongolia

Strong, light, warm to wear, and deliciously soft, cashmere is wonderfully luxurious but, with clothing production falling under increasing environmental scrutiny, questions are now being asked about cashmere production.

Woven from the soft hair of goats, cashmere is both natural and long-lasting but its production has raised concerns over desertification, caused by over-grazed grasslands, and the possible cruelty to goats kept in confined spaces. Such worries have prompted some cashmere manufacturers to investigate their supply chains more thoroughly.

“There is too little knowledge about the impact of cashmere production,” says Nick Falkingham, managing director of the British brand Pure Collection, one of a growing group of companies working to raise awareness of the issues surrounding its production.

The Italian company Loro Piana, known for some of the world’s finest luxury cashmere, has opened a subsidiary in Ulan Bator, Mongolia’s capital, both to establish long-term relationships with nomadic herdsmen and to monitor quality control. Pier Luigi Loro Piana, joint chief executive, says: “We believe it is vital to maintain optimal conditions for the animals to preserve the cashmere’s quality. The flocks must live naturally.”

British retailer Marks & Spencer asks its cashmere suppliers to complete a questionnaire. Devised in 2008 after an M&S team visited suppliers in Inner Mongolia, it gathers information on animal husbandry and environmental issues. The company has also recently signed a deal to work with the Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals on all animal-derived materials, including cashmere.

John Lewis makes its suppliers commit to its code of practice on responsible sourcing. Stephen Cawley, the group’s merchandise standards manager, says: “There has to be trust but suppliers who understand our expectations on sourcing also understand that if that trust is broken, they risk their long-term trading relationship.”

Relaying the environmentally sound message to consumers, however, is another challenge. N Peal, a luxury cashmere brand, has yet to incorporate the standards applied to its supply chain into its marketing strategy, even though “ethical” has become an increasingly valuable selling point. Managing director Adam Holdsworth says: “For most manufacturers, the cashmere supply chain is so complicated that they have little chance to fully audit supply in order to make claims with assurance. But attitudes at the luxury end are slowly changing.”

As are attitudes beyond the fashion industry. China provides a government subsidy to farmers who can demonstrate good land management. Organisations such as Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education have funded projects to develop improved combing techniques. These techniques discourage the use of speedy shearing, a process that can leave goats with little or no coat for warmth. The United States Agency for International Development has launched a campaign to teach combing to some 170,000 Afghani goatherds, which will boost rural incomes from herds more typically farmed for meat, milk or leather. The aim is to make cashmere as long-lasting, and sustainable, as possible.

Details

www.johnlewis.com

www.loropiana.com

www.marksandspencer.com

www.npeal.com

www.purecollection.com

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Luxury yarn gets an ethical twist

Eco cashmere is not the only fabric vying for the title of luxury yarn with an ethical spin, writes Libby Richardson. Aymara, the brainchild of Danish designers Maria Hogh Heilmann and Trine Fyhr, offers cardigans, jumper dresses, vests and shawls made of Cashlama, a yarn with the softness of cashmere, produced in Bolivia and derived from llama fibres.

Heilmann and Fyhr say: “We saw an opening in the market for a new luxury fabric.” Llama fibres are hollow and longer than other wools, rendering the fabric warm and soft but still lightweight and resistant to wear and tear. “The quality is durable and the fabric keeps its luxurious look,” the designers say. It’s also consciously “green” as the designers are committed to corporate social responsibility. The business funds programmes to help children in Bolivia and has been working to improve conditions for factory workers and to modernise production plants.

Despite its eco credentials, which can often mean higher prices, Aymara’s products aim to be relatively affordable with knits starting at €160 and reaching €300. “We wanted to create a product that was an affordable luxury,” say Heilmann and Fyhr.

As recipients of the Danish Fashion Council’s Ethical Fashion Award last year, the designers are optimistic about the future of their business. “We want to expand the skills and ethical standards at the factory in Bolivia, making us leaders within knitwear,” they say. “One should not underestimate the end consumer: they want a product that has relevance in colour, usability, quality and social responsibility.”