Start in the village square, ignoring for the time being the Butley Orford Oysterage and associated fishmonger, and the home-smoked ham shop. Head down Quay Street, lined with fine 18th-century brick houses (take a detour to the beautiful medieval church of Saint Bartholomew). The quiet quay, with a few sailing boats bobbing around, offers a tea shop and boat trips to Havergate Island.

Head right along the footpath next to the muddy River Ore. On the other side is Orford Ness, an island formed of shingle which has gradually extended south from the mouth of the River Alde. For decades, Orford Ness was off limits because of Ministry of Defence secret weapons research, and it’s still littered with strange mounds and pagoda-like structures, unforgettably described by ­W.G. Sebald in The Rings of Saturn.

One advantage of this seclusion is wildlife. You’ll hear the cry of curlews (Benjamin Britten’s “Curlew River” premiered in St Bartholomew’s), oystercatchers and redshank, and may see the elegant black-tailed godwit or the Suffolk coast’s emblematic bird, the black and white avocet.

After a while you can climb down from the embankment and walk through fields towards Gedgrave. This is typical flat Suffolk farmland, woods in the distance, with good chances of startling a hare, goose or swan.

Then walk back along the road from Gedgrave into Orford, this time approaching from the side of the fine castle of 1165. Climb up the keep for views across towards Orford Ness, north up the coast towards Aldeburgh and south towards Felixstowe.

You may feel you have earned a drink. Orford has two pubs. The Jolly Sailor in Quay Street is the more down-to-earth, and the King’s Head in Front Street offers good fish specials. Both serve excellent Adnams ales.

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The details
An amble along the River Ore

Level
Easy

Length of walk
3 miles, 1½ hours

Map reference
Ordnance Survey Landranger 156, 169

Pitstops
The Jolly Sailor, www.thejollysailor.net
The King’s Head, www.thekingshead.orford.co.uk

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