Apart from the wine controversy at last week’s Brussels summit (Mudlark, on Thursday), there was nearly a food crisis too. Scottish fish destined for the tables of the EU’s 25 leaders were left languishing in a warehouse for 24 hours by the courier company, DHL.

By the time it was delivered, the fresh smoked haddock, centrepiece of the Cullen Skink soup, had gone off. Lest skink become stink, chefs did a frantic ringround and found 6kg of frozen haddock from Jack O’Shea, the Irish butcher who provided lamb for the main course.