In Sicily, where it's still pretty much mid-summer, these are confusing times.

As citizens of Palermo rouse themselves with the world's strongest shots of espresso, they see round them what appear to be hallucinations. Everywhere are men wearing pink shirts. The post-machismo colours of the local football team had always been a rare sight on the island, like correctly parked cars, because Sicilian football was usually terrible. But Palermo start this weekend joint top of the Italian league. Stranger still, two other Sicilian teams - Messina and Catania - are in Italy's top 11.