The Bluebird restaurant in Chelsea has been getting even bluer of late, with the young royal Prince William and Kate Middleton popping in for burgers and chips. But in the spirit of new year, Terence Conran's chic, chandeliered pit-stop has turned away from high (albeit delicious) cholesterol to go green and organic with a ''wellbeing'' menu.

The huge, glamorous dining room overlooks the King's Road and sits above the Bluebird cafe, deli and terrace. It exudes an aura of relaxed wealth which does not immediately fit with the idea of simple, healthy cooking. Starters of pumpkin, honey and walnut salad, and Jerusalem artichokes with poached egg arrive promptly, both resting on mounds of watercress. The pumpkin - roasted and shredded - has a zesty dressing, and the artichoke blends richly with the egg. It doesn't feel like penance, and even comes with home-made bread.