A petite young Japanese woman in a pink uniform and a white apron stood at the entry to my carriage with an enticing food trolley. She bowed deeply and politely announced the snacks and drinks on offer, including ekiben with spicy cod roe – a local speciality of north-east Kyushu, the most south-westerly of Japan’s four main islands. I was tempted but this time I decided to pace myself and wait for the delicacies on offer at Hiroshima, the next stop. She bowed again and left our carriage.
Trains in Japan offer not just an efficient means of transport but a cultural experience – a chance to sample the country’s rich and diverse regional delicacies at a fraction of the cost of one of Tokyo’s Michelin-starred restaurants.



