In terms of fine wine, the year just ending looks eerily similar to 1997. It may well prove to be more famous for its dramatic price rises than for the vintage itself.

Wine producers in Europe’s Riesling zones, the Douro valley and the southern Rhône may be enthusiastic about the 2007 vintage currently sitting in their vats but the message from those in the classic fine wine areas of Bordeaux and Burgundy is a much less triumphant “the wines produced by that miserable summer have turned out much better than you might think”.