Financial Times FT.com

Reassurance in France

By Nicholas Lander

Published: March 1 2008 01:08 | Last updated: March 1 2008 01:08

The restaurant industry has already suffered two body-blows this year. The death of Jean-Claude Vrinat, the legend behind the acclaimed Taillevent and arguably the greatest restaurateur in Paris, was followed a few weeks later by that of Bill Baker of Reid Wines, at the age of 53.

Both played an extremely influential role in the industry. Vrinat was not a chef but the internationally revered owner of Taillevent and a constant inspirational presence in the dining room. Taillevent’s attentive and egalitarian service was admired and imitated by other owners around the world, including Danny Meyer, owner of the Gramercy Tavern and Union Square Café in New York.

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