Furry animals dangle from a succession of bushmeat stalls on the road to around Yaoundé, the capital of Cameroon’s capital. If it scurries, skips or slithers through the forest in this country, the chances are somebody will kill it and try to sell it to you for dinner. Luckily, I have come for the fish.

The Maison Blanche is not much to look at – just a dining hall furnished with plastic lawn chairs in the city’s Mvog-Ada quarter. But a friend has recommended it as one of the best places in Cameroon to sample the country’s traditional national seafood recipes.