I may not be well qualified to talk about street food: I haven’t been to a street market in Singapore or wandered around the barrios of Mexico City. I have, however, strolled around a few markets in Tuscany and Umbria and can say porchetta is the best street food I know. It beats hamburgers or hot dogs and I can’t imagine why some fast food entrepreneur does not pick up on the idea but at the same time hope that he does not.

This week sees the return of the Taste of London to Regent’s Park, running from Thursday to Sunday. Being unemployed last year – planning the birth of Le Café Anglais as it happens – I was unable to attend in a professional capacity and I missed it. I should explain that Taste of London, among many other stallholders selling all things epicurean, features over 40 top London restaurants producing just three little dishes each to a thronging mass of gastronomes. It is the era of the 30-second soundbite for gourmets, minus the sound.