Wine production being a particularly sensitive barometer of climate change, vineyards are creeping polewards in both hemispheres (see acres of newsprint on England’s, and now vineyards in Norway, being invaded by champagne producers).

South America has by far the most available land for a southward extension of the world’s wine map – even if there are other ways of coping with lower latitudes such as planting vines at high altitudes as is so common in north-western Argentina, or choosing sites that are reliably cooled by Pacific fog such as the growing number in northern Chile. Land values in the sparsely populated wastes of the south of Argentina and Chile are relatively low however. Indeed the most southerly vineyard and winery in Argentina is surrounded by several thousand hectares of land owned by Benetton and dedicated to providing the raw material for their woolly jumpers.