It would be hard to nominate a favourite dish for the late Hugh Massingberd. The obituarist, editor and trencherman who died on Christmas Day liked everything. One favourite story is of the waiter who recited to him the litany of breakfast fare (sausages, eggs, bacon, mushrooms, tomatoes, kidneys ...) and was given the simple answer “yes please”.

Hugh started coming to Kensington Place in the early 1990s. A massive heart attack temporarily stopped him, but he soon recovered and his eating took on heroic proportions.