As I head down to Wall Street, I am a little anxious about which Jim Cramer I’ll be dining with today. Will it be the screaming, middle-aged frat boy who whips himself on air when his stock picks fail and throws cream pies at photos of CEOs he thinks should be sacked? Or will it be the Goldman Sachs alumnus, successful hedge fund founder and online business news pioneer who writes a smart finance column in New York magazine?

For today’s lunch at Bobby Van’s, an old-fashioned steak and seafood joint that is all about men and money, it seems we will be getting Dr Jekyll. Carefully groomed and wearing a dark suit, Cramer is quiet, even courtly. As he ushers me into the glassed-off private room the restaurant has set aside for us, I can’t help think of Narnia’s Mr Tumnus – the same pointed beard, diminutive stature, graceful manners and, lurking beneath them, an almost childlike sense of mischief.