House wines used to be the most disappointing aspect of any restaurant visit. Often thin and acidic, a house wine’s only saving grace – at least until the following morning – was that it was cheap.

The good news today is that the overall quality of most wine lists is vastly superior to what it was even a decade ago and the choice is much greater. Many restaurateurs have introduced a section at the front of their wine list called the House or Sommelier’s Selection, which offers three or four different wines, both red and white, of varying styles and origin, by the glass.